Chinese Fowl Dishes by Jee Hui Poh

BAK GING TIN AB (PEKING DUCK) The original recipe for Peking Duck was scribed some 300 years ago and ran for more than 15,000 words! Ducks are specially bred for this dish, and consequently there is a prosperous duck industry in Beijing. The ducks are generously fed so they are quite big and plump by the time they are ready for market. The preparation of this dish is lengthy and complicated, and there are specialist Peking Duck chefs who are highly trained in this art.

First, air is pumped into the body between the skin and the flesh, in much the same way a balloon is inflated, the neck is then tightly tied with string, so that the duck remains inflated. Next the bird is blanched in boiling water several times, then left to dry in a cool draughty place for five hours. A mixture of malt honey, cornflour and vinegar is brushed over the skin and then it is hung to dry for a further four to five hours, before a second coating is applied. The duck is then roasted in a hot oven to make the skin crisp, after which the heat is lowered and cooking continues for one hour.

The serving of Peking Duck is quite theatrical. It is ceremoniously wheeled out to the table on a trolley by the chef, resplendent in uniform and white gloves. The skin is skillfully and sliced with the merest sliver of flesh, and rolled inside a fine pancake and served with spring onions and hoisin sauce.

HUNG XIU BAAT BOU AB (BRAISED EIGHT-JEWELLED DUCK) In this dish the duck is first fried then slowly stewed with ginger and spring onion until very tender. The eight jewels accompanying the duck can be exotics like braised sea cucumber, abalone, black mushrooms, lotus nuts, bamboo shoots, dried scallops, prawns and Chinese greens.

HED YI GEI (BEGGAR’S CHICKEN) This is an elaborate dish exclusively made in restaurants. A whole chicken is partially deboned, stuffed with pork, vegetables, mushrooms, ginger and other seasonings, wrapped in Lotus leaves and wet clay or pastry and baked for several hours. The result is a fragrant chicken that can literally be carved with chopsticks. Of course there is a story behind this dish: legend has it that a beggar stole a chicken and was building a fire to cook the clucker when its rightful owner appeared. The quick-thinking beggar smothered the bird in clay and threw it in the fire. Once the coast was clear, he cracked open the clay mould and a taste sensation was born.

JA JI GEI (CRISPY SKIN CHICKEN) With this dish, the chicken is poached. Maltose, salt and flour mixed with the poaching stock is poured over the chicken and the bird is hung in a draughty spot to dry. It is deep fried until the skin is crisp and brown. Once done it is sliced and served with fresh lemon and a roasted salt and pepper dip called jiu yim (prickly ash).

JEUNG CHA AB (CAMPHOR TEA-SMOKED DUCK) The first cousin to the legendary Peking Duck and is equal if not better. Three cooking techniques are necessary for the unique result: steaming, smoking, then deep frying. The smoky succulent pieces are served with hot, fluffy steamed buns.

XIU NGOH (ROAST GOOSE) A Hong Kong speciality found at many yum cha houses. The marinating and roasting techniques is the same as for roast duck. The resulting meat is extremely tender and the skin very rich and crisp.

JUI GEI (DRUNKEN CHICKEN) So named because the poached chicken is marinated in poaching broth and rice wine. It is served chilled in small pieces, as an appetizer.

NING MUNG GEI (LEMON CHICKEN) This dish has many variations. The classic recipe is crispy skin chicken served with fresh lemons, however, more westernized versions use bite-size fillets dusted with egg and flour, deep fried and served with lemon sauce made from simmering lemon juice, sugar and chicken stock.

YIM GUK GEI(SALT-BAKED CHICKEN) The signature dish of the Hakka people. A whole chicken is wrapped in cooking paper and buried in a deep cooking pot or wok containing very hot rock salt. The chicken is baked in the heat of the salt, and the result is a golden, moist chicken with a unique salty-sweet taste and delicate fragrance. Historical records of the area of Dong Jiang in Guangdong reveal similar recipes for cooking chicken in salt.

CHUI JAU LOU SUI NHOH (CHUI CHOW SOYED GOOSE) The goose is gently stewed in a rich sauce made principally of soy sauce, and served with a garlic and vinegar dip.

XIU AB (ROAST DUCK) This dish starts with the bird being seasoned on the inside with spices, sewn up securely, basted with a honey-soy-vinegar mixture and hung to dry. It is then roasted until the skin is a glowing chestnut brown. Roast duck is served chopped or can be bought whole or in halves at specialist Cantonese restaurants and takeaways.
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